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  • We're working on renovating this bathroom and right now it's time to start on the new

  • tile floor. It's definitely one of the more advanced projects, but you can do it. In this

  • video we'll show you how to prep the floor. After you've prepped, watch How to Install

  • a Tile Floor at Lowes.com/HowTo.

  • Getting the subfloor ready is THE most important part of the job because if you don't do it

  • right the floor could crack. Now a tile floor can be installed several ways. Whatever you

  • do, just be sure to follow your local codes and your manufacturer's directions.

  • To give you an idea of our installation, here's what we'll do:

  • After we take out the old floor, we'll apply unmodified mortar to the existing concrete

  • mortar bed. Then we'll put down this Schluter DITRA uncoupling membrane; a layer of unmodified

  • thinset; our tile; grout; and sealer.

  • Now keep in mind that this install is not the same as tiling a shower or tub.

  • Before you get started, figure out how much new tile you'll need. Multiply the length

  • times the width and add 10% for extra. If you special order your tile, you can schedule

  • your project for when your tile order will be ready.

  • Now it's time to remove the old flooring. Start by taking out the toilet, vanity, and

  • any trim that might be in the way. Oh, and plug the sewer pipe with a rag to keep sewer

  • gas from leaking into the room.

  • If you're removing tile like we are, it's a really good idea to mask off the doorway

  • and open a window. I'm not going to lieremoving tile gets really dusty. Ok, take a hammer

  • and give the old tile a whack. After you've broken some up, use a hammer and chisel to

  • remove the tile.

  • Once the tile is gone, use a floor scraper to remove the old thinset.

  • As you can see, our bathroom has a mortar bed. This is common in homes built before

  • 1950, like ours. You can repair minor cracks and tile over it like we are, but if it has

  • major damage you'll have to remove it. Your subfloor has to be in good condition, uniform,

  • proper thickness, dry, clear of any residue, and level. If it isn't level, just fill the

  • low spots with a leveling compound.

  • There's been a big change in this room. As you can see we're also working on replacing

  • our tile walls. You can find the video for this process at our website. All right, well

  • now it's time to put down the Schluter DITRA. This stuff is pretty cool. It's a flexible

  • membrane that allows for expansion under the tile, but it also gives us a strong foundation

  • and helps protect the subfloor underneath.

  • So to begin installing this membrane, start in a corner and roll it out across the floor.

  • Cut it at the wall and that's the first piece. Go ahead and cut all your pieces.

  • If you have to cut around pipes, just use a utility knife.

  • It's also a good idea to mark the edges of each run to know where to spread your thinset.

  • Once all the pieces are cut and in place, be sure to mark numbers on each piece as well

  • as corresponding numbers on the floor.

  • If you have doorjambs and doors, stack a floor tile on a piece of the membrane against the

  • trim. Use a jamb saw to cut it about 1/16 of an inch above the stack, and cut doors

  • about 1/8 of an inch above the stack.

  • Next, you'll need to mix unmodified thinset mortar. Mix it fairly loose, but not so thin

  • that the ridges fall down when it's applied with a trowel. Use a 14-in by 3/16-in V-notched

  • trowel. Apply a thin layer of mortar to the substrate with the flat side to produce solid

  • contact with the surface. Then comb the mortar using the notched side.

  • Roll the membrane over the floor, fleece side down, and solidly embed it in the mortar using

  • a wood float. Pull back a corner of the membrane to check that you're getting full coverage.

  • You should see half of the mortar on the floor and half on the fleece. Continue laying the

  • DITRA, keeping the pieces tight against each other.

  • To make the floor completely waterproof, install KERDI-BAND on the seams and corners. Use unmodified

  • thinset mortar with the same trowel, making sure there's at least a 2-in overlap at all

  • seams.

  • We're really making progress on this bathroom and we're almost done with prepping the floor.

  • We just need to make some reference lines for the new tile.

  • Mark the center of two opposite walls and snap a chalkline. Spraying hairspray works

  • well to hold the chalk on the membrane. Do the same on the other two walls to form a

  • cross, and check that it's square. Loose lay the tile along the lines, using the spacers

  • for accuracy. Leave about 1/4-in between the perimeter tiles and walls for expansion. If

  • the layout gives you thin cuts on the sides, adjust it to get a wider cut, and mark new

  • reference lines. Now you can pick up the tiles.

  • Well, our lines are set so now it's time to start laying some tile. Check out the rest

  • of this project at Lowes.com/HowTo.

We're working on renovating this bathroom and right now it's time to start on the new

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B2 tile mortar floor membrane cut remove

How to Prep Subfloor for Tile Installation

  • 17 2
    nckuba posted on 2014/04/06
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